Tag: Culture

  • Expo Shanghai

    “China, meet World.  World, meet China.”

    It’s statement is pretty clear.

    World Fairs and Expositions are a chance for the nations of the world to trade ideas and peddle their cultural and industrial wares.  This year’s show, held in an emergent and increasingly confident Shanghai, seems to be less for the benefit of the global community, and rather a chance for the people of China to experience the world they are set to inherit.

    If the future is reflected between the pavilions and edifices, it is one full of Chinese people.  Over 52 million people have visited the fair thus far, and even though I chose a quiet Tuesday evening to attend, queues stretched around the (futurist) block.  After seeing the line-up for the British pavilion stretch past the two-hour marker, and similarly long lines for the other ‘blue chip’ countries, I decided not to enter any pavilions at all.  Nope – if someone asks me which countries I visited, I am not about to say ‘Belgium and The Philippines’; I would simply prefer to spend more time walking around and taking it all in.

    So, starting roughly in the middle with Europe (America is comically marginalised at the absolute extreme far end of the site), I began my international stroll.  The British pavilion, designed by Thomas Heatherwick, was a triumph; and possibly even more dramatic than the huge, Blade Runner-esque Chinese building.  People gawped (me included) at the explosion of rods, seemly frozen in time and hanging in mid-air, as if smoke.  Rounding it a couple of times, it was interesting to compare it to some of the adjacent sites which were lighter on drama and heavier on content.  Italy and Spain both seemed to be far more full of actual things to look at and do, and others were at least packed with restaurants; most of the Norway site was filled with its Salmon restaurant, and Belgium even featured a chip van parked out the front (I do admit to stopping their for a refuel).

    Rule Britannia … one thing I like about the design, is that it seems to accidentally mimic the Union flag.  What can I say – I guess it felt good to see the flag flying in front.

    Amorphous shape.

    On the fence.

    What must they think?

    Subtle commercial activities.

    Other blatant political messages dotted the site.  The aforementioned Taiwanese pavilion, themed like a sky lantern, was placed within arms reach of China, only slightly further away than Macao and Hong Kong.  And much like America, Japan was placed at the absolute far end of the site, keeping Kazakhstan and Vietnam company.  Meanwhile, Koreas North and South were separated by the major walkway linking the site together.  Laying out the plots must have been akin to organising a wedding banquet.

    Click to see who is on China’s Christmas card list this year.

    Plenty of eco-ness pervaded the event, but you can’t help but wonder about the amount of energy used to transform the site, and ferry the legions of people in.  While pavilions such as New Zealand made proud boasts about the amount of energy they were using, others (notably Taiwan) seemed to take it upon themselves to fuel those solar panels through the night with an wanton display of LED-showmanship.  2010 is clearly the coming-out party for the humble LED as an architectural element.

    And just as my feet were beginning to get tired, it suddenly struck me what the whole thing felt like.  It was like visiting a showroom for domestic and international airports, all clustered together in one site.  Without the airplanes, of course, but still with the faint feeling that you were just about to pick up your luggage.

    I actually attended the Hanover Expo, ten years previously, and I think I was left with the same impression; numbness.  Disney without the rides.  Airports without planes.  Experience, but without the understanding.

    Yep – even the UN gets their own pavilion.

    Spain’s was huge, and covered in door mats.

    People really enjoyed the fashion show outside Germany’s building.

    The Greek pavilion.

    Some areas of the world made more effort than others.

    The show, of course, was not really for international visitors; it was for the legions of Chinese, coming in from other cities and towns; it was amazing to see the variety of faces, and equally humbling to think about the reactions that they would be having to some of the more ‘challenging’ pavilions (like the UK), when they probably would have been perfectly happy with a fake castle.

    A light show from Taiwan… looking up to big brother on the other side of the walkway.

    Let’s hope your next project isn’t, well, Taiwan.

  • Kinmen Tales

    After six years, I finally made it to Kinmen (金門)!  Nikki and I decided to break for the border (well, almost) and book a long weekend away from Taipei; our first trip away together.

    Kinmen (pronounced ‘Jin-Men’), is a curious historical anomaly, situated as it is a mere 2100m away from the coast of mainland China.  Indeed, administratively, its official title is ‘Fujian Province, Republic of China’, demonstrating very clearly the attitude of previous administrations towards the islet; they possessed a small portion of the mainland, and one day they were coming back for the rest. (more…)

  • Jiufen Escape

    Feeling blurry – but all the better for escaping the city.

    Quick escape from a sleepy, rainy Taipei, and off to Jiufen for an afternoon session of tea and Taiwanese snacks.  Very satisfying.

    Looking over at Turtle Island.

    Lantern Street

    The wind picks up.

  • X Beyond O : Calligraphy – Sign – Space


    School days

    In contrast to last weekend, which was an alcohol-fueled romp through Taipei’s early mornings, I decided this weekend to be a little more civilised, and thus lined up a morning of Mountain Biking (sweaty), followed by a rather more cultured stroll around the Museum of Contemporary Art in Taipei.

    I turned up to quite a large exhibit of modern interpretations of Chinese calligraphy, called X Beyond O: Calligraphy – Sign – Space. I have seen my fair share of ‘modern China’ style exhibitions on this type of subject, but they wowed with some really very memorable pieces, including projection of characters onto graffiti’d-up school desks, piles of paper with laser-cut symbols running through and fun and games with the increasingly ubiquitous multi-touch displays.

    I am still somewhat blown away by the main space, however. A huge ink pad – and I mean huge; about the size of a tennis court – flanked by a scroll and brushes on one side. Dimly lit and perfectly reflective, it really was rather a special space.

    I can’t pretend to be able to penetrate these deeper aspects of the culture – especially written culture – but I do think I can appreciate it none-the-less, and certainly enjoy it. I say that, as the Chinese I have been learning over the last few years is bring ground to dust, replaced by the mental effort required to survive at Dell!


    Hidden images, projected into a brightly-lit room


    … which entailed running around the room attempting to capture and focus the characters on Chinese fans … one reference too far?


    The main exhibition space. None more black.


    Reflecting.

  • Andy Warhol in Taipei


    Andy Warhol at the CKS

    The latest ‘hot’ exhibition to visit in Taipei is th Andy Warhol retrospective at the Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Hall (at least, I think they changed the name back from ‘Democracy Memorial Hall’, when the DPP were pissing around with changing names of historical monuments). I suppose I am not the biggest fan on earth of Warhol, but I am happy enough to go along and check it out – especially since it was with a few arty friends who know a little more about the subject of screen printing and pop art.

    What made me double-intrigued was the fact that it was being held underneath the mausoleum of said National Icon – and it could not escape my finely-honed sense of irony that one of the key exhibits was a print of his arch-nemesis, Mao Zedong.

    Like all too many exhibitions in Taiwan, there were too many exhibits (walls and walls full of Marilyn, it seemed) and too many people shuffling around. The exhibition design was lacking, and the space was, in a word, ‘poky’ – although I can hardly blame this on them – if you plan to have an exhibition under a tomb you ain’t going to argue about space. The shop did seem, however, to deliver on the ‘commercial art’ promise of Warhol, and was thus packed with people buying tat pasted with Warhol signatures.

    Or maybe I was just hung over. Anyway – a fun day out. By starting at Chiang Kai Shek and ending up at Ximen, I really did feel like I was in a foreign country for the first time in a little while.


    Seeing the dancers practicing in the windows reminded me of trips there when I first arrived. The photo I took that day of the kids throwing one of their friends in the air is still one of my favourite shots.


    Friends jacking around


    I probably take the same photo every time, but it still makes me chuckle.




    Impressive doors, and brass nobs.

  • Music & Aesthetics

    Steve blagged some journo tickets to see the National China Beijing Opera as they visited town for their one-off Sunday night review, and it gave me the chance to have my first ever taste of this form of theatre that one might assume everyone sees on a regular basis when living in Taiwan or China. It wasn’t quite the Full Monty – instead the performers wore suits and refrained from the make-up – but a line-up of virtuosos from China and Taiwan had been (re)assembled, and clearly peoples’ emotions were piqued.


    Photo from www.artsticket.com.tw

    First impressions were, at best mixed. Cacophonous musical barrage ballons that mark the style of music butted up against the entirely-too-harmonios stage design and pastel presentation.

    Set in an environment where we were the only foreign / under 50 people in the house, it all made for a rather strange experience. The crowd heckled and clapped at seemingly entirely random points during each set, screaming out in appreciation as might a crowd of Rolling Stones fans. And yet, when I felt moved, the crowd remained silent.

    This continued throughout the performance, and I have been thinking about it a great deal over the past few days. Essentially, in the same way as the music that I constantantly critisise in Taiwanese for being bland and monotonous, this music seemed to be rewarded by this crowd of octogenerians not for being expressive, but for restraint. Not for the performer letting go, but for surfing the boundary within a tightly defined set of constraints. As Steve put it so perfectly, the entire ‘Aesthetic’ of the music was completely different – harmony and riot, restraint and revolt are flipped on its head.

    So, after almost five years in Taiwan, perhaps I understand something a little bit more, and maybe this window into music also allows me to see how the design scene here rewards restraint and operating between the boundaries. Need to think about that some more.

    Finally, while leaving, I realised just how many of the crowd spoke not in a Taiwanese accent, but in thicker tones of Northern China. It’s doubtful that they were tourists, or that they travelled to Taiwan especially for the concert, so it only means that this ‘scene’ of elderly Opera lovers were left stranded here to appreciate the artform. And on this day, the best performers from Taiwan and China came together, spanning old maestros and the considerable battalion of young artists that have chosen to fly the flag once again. It might not quite be to my taste, but it felt pretty special to see the tendrils of tradition reaching out across the waters to bang the drum.

  • Taipei Street Movies

    Wandering along Civic Boulevard the other evening, one of the local temples was putting on a show of movies, projected from proper reel, down the pavement. I am not quite sure who was supposed to be watching, as it only seemed to be the guy operating the projector and his mate in the audience. I don’t even remember if there was any sound. What a great concept, though.


    A night at the movies.


    IMAX, almost.

  • Taipei Institute of History and Philology

    Our teacher, Austin, arranged a school trip for us today to visit the catchily-titled Taiwan Museum of the Institute of History and Philology. The name might not be world-class, but the exhibits certainly are, and they have a very nicely designed exhibition space. I was impressed.


    The Oracle Bones

    I was especially excited to see the ‘Oracle Bones‘, since I have recently finished reading the book by the same name by Peter Hessler, which punctuates his observations of modern Chinese people and the changes taking place in the society with a history of archeology in China. The ‘Oracle Bones’ are the roots to the written language, and were used by priests to divine the future, based on the inscriptions that they marked. It’s almost certainly worth another post, when I am feeling more academically inclined.

    Walking around the museums in Taiwan makes me think back to my Grandfather, who was an amateur scholar of Chinese porcelain. I have no doubt that if he was still alive today I would have weekly requests to visit the museums and gather information. He never had the chance to visit Asia, and sometimes I wonder if I am in some way finishing off his work. Certainly, I wonder if my interest in Chinese culture indirectly comes from my childhood memories of his precious collections – especially the Ming dynasty vase that my Dad thoughtfully dropped me into head-first when I was but a wee nipper. Again, a story for another day.


    Is there something we should know about?

  • Happy Lunar New Year

    Happy Lunar New Year everyone!

    新年快樂!

  • Coldcut in Taipei

    Coldcut came to Taiwan as part of HP’s ‘Art in Motion’ tour, and totally blew me away. I was asked to provide the write-up for the Taipei Times, so rather than say the same thing again, here are my words from the newspaper:

    Taipei Times ‘Weekender’

    Last night saw the Taipei instalment of the HP-sponsored ‘Art in Motion’ tour at Luxy, featuring British legends Coldcut, Jurassic 5’s DJ Nu-Mark and VJ support from Berlin crew Pfadfinderei. Ostensibly a fusion of music and live visuals, early on the show seemed like an extended advert for HP’s personal computers, and with guidance from the most irritating emcee in Asia was beginning to unfold into some kind of hip-hop-themed ‘wei-ya’ end of year party.

    However, things began to improve quickly when Nu-Mark took to the decks and wowed the crowds by mixing sampled beats with a selection of increasingly unlikely musical children’s’ toys. Innovative, and unlike the local beat-boxing warm up act, not a bit self-indulgent, the crowd responded with a mixture of laughter and butt-on-the-floor boogying.

    With the audience now suitably warmed up, Coldcut entered stage right and took no prisoners with a ballistic delivery of hip-hop, dub and electronic beats, all synchronised with nine projectors beaming video and images around the room in an awesome display of digital showmanship. Jumping from the more obscure references of their own back-catalogue, they never allowed themselves to alienate the newcomers and regularly dropped in samples from sources as diverse as Prokofiev’s “Peter and the Wolf”, Run DMC and AC/DC. Taipei barely knew what hit them.

    With Nu-Mark resuming control, the entire room bounced the rest of the night away to the sounds of a thousand house parties, and the best music Taipei has heard in several years.


    Colcut – to the limit


    Nick keeps it nice and sleazy


    And some other words from Tom, as featured in ‘The Vinyl Word’ last week:

    Taipei Times – ‘The Vinyl Word’