After 18 months away from Asia, I finally headed back. Back in the saddle!
Tag: Travel
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Back in the Saddle
Blurry trip from the airport 
Up at the crack of dawn the next morning … I was so used to living on the ‘other’ side of the world and travelling East to reach Asia that I often felt quite disorientated with time. 
The Bund, Shanghai 
Morning boats 
Hiking Hong Kong 
High-rise living 
Tanja & Edgar! 
Reminders of the little nooks and crannies that Taiwanese people would take over … lovely to see the same thing in Hong Kong. 
Play time 
Good times … all rather different now with a car … and a walking talking addition to the family! 
Panorama 
Views out to the island 
Great to have access from their back door 
Urban vertical sprawl 
Down into Mongkok and Kowloon 
Ello Dad 
Out at Discovery Bay … kind of like Disneyland, but you live there. 
Water world 
Couldn’t believe I caught this one – a guy was carrying a dragon’s mask and some shopping as I was waiting for a taxi in Shenzhen 
View up the street in Shanghai 
Some random digging 
Young chefs -
California Dreaming
Today I landed in America. Months of theory are suddenly turned into practice, and amidst a haze of jet lag and general exhaustion from having gift-wrapped a previous chapter of my life, I am suddenly presented with such a wall of potential experience lying in wait that I can do little more at this point than shake my head and wonder how the hell it all happened to fast.
Relaxed rushing around in Taipei taking care of paperwork like ending cell phone contracts and ensuring bank accounts can be accessed, was matched with quite the most surreal experience of the year; watching a team of impossibly polite strangers pack your life into boxes and crates, with nothing but a ‘sorry sir’ and ‘excuse me sir’ to engage with. Luckily, a rather wonderful group of friends was there to scoop me up and treat me to my last bites of Taiwan, ending the culinary experience as it began; with a plate of Gongbiao Chicken in a loud and roudy restaurant, naturally washed down with some jars of Taiwan pijiu.
Hugs and rushed goodbyes complete, Yuyin and I made our way through the rain to the airport, ironically tracing the steps I made out to Hongshulin all those years ago (ie: along back roads, full of betelnut girls and dodgy furniture stores). A hop, skip (Tokyo Narita) and a jump, and before we knew it we had cleared customs and were blazing through the city on our way to our temporary accommodation. The day was full of ironies, but top amongst them is surely that our apartment friend Erick of Facebook fame can virtually see into our living room. Well, almost.
What a day to land. A photogenic city in the worst of light, today it was bathed in a clear, warm blanket of autumnal sunshine. Kicking off proceedings at Hog Island Oyster Company at the base of Market Street in the Ferry Building, crisp Napa white wine washed down oysters where zesty flavours whipped, cracked and fizzed in my mouth, the flavour experience extending beyond the tongue, into the roof of my mouth and somehow down into my belly. Suggested serving: under blue Californian autumnal skies.
A Blue Bottle coffee (the best cappuccino i have ever had?) and a banana tartlet later, and it was time to take in the Embarcadero, slowly approaching the sea. Yuyin and I were shaking our heads in disbelief all the way, but it was all we could do to stop ourselves turning back when we saw the silhouette of the Golden Gate Bridge set against a perfect graduation of oranges and reds, sliding into the Pacific Ocean. Stop this now. Leave some for later! It must be downhill from here. But keep me believing – you can see why people wrote songs about this place.
Tomorrow, the gluey bits start to come together; social security, initial apartment hunting, and meeting colleagues for the first time. But for now, I am happy to relive perfect autumnal oysters, set on the most perfectly fabulous plate I could imagine.
California Dreaming 
What's up dog? 
Too much, too soon! -
881 TW
Seven and a half years ago, almost to the day, I arrived in Taiwan with a rucksack, a pack of CDs, a job with a little-known computer company and not a clue about what the future might hold.
I came for a year of experience in Asia, to see if I could cut it as a proper designer, and with a vague notion of getting paid for an extended period of backpacking.
I could not have predicted the depth and breadth of the experience, the amount I learnt about both the world and myself, the formation of such lasting, granite-strong friendships, and that I would form such a strong bond with this little island in the Pacific Ocean.
It is all of this and more that has given me the opportunity to be where I am right now; somewhere above Okinawa, a beautiful girl by my side, a job offer from one of the most exciting organisations in the world, and the goal to make a new home in a place that I thought only existed in the movies. Every time I think about all of this, I shake my head in disbelief and let out a little English-sounding murmur. Beautiful madness.
I’ll miss you, Taiwan. The worn-in familiarity of an old pair of jeans, the warmth and openness of the people, the love for food that is woven into the culture, scenery to make you weep, and enough crazy little details to make me laugh every single day. My secret little gem; a speck in the Pacific Ocean I came to call ‘home’.
881 y'all! -
How to Pack Your Life into Boxes
How to pack your life into boxes, in 12 easy steps:
1. Identify the most important things in your life and loosely throw them into the living room 
2. Invite a team of highly-trained strangers into your life, with inappropriately large amounts of packing material. 
3. Stand there helpless as they start work. Nod and say yes to whatever questions they pose to you. 
4. Marvel at the amazing lengths they go to, to pack every single thing you own (since you have a huge 20ft container it doesn't what you take anyway) 
5. Go outside to get away from the insanity. Consider taking up smoking. 
6. Stare lovingly at your prized possessions, before the inevitable happens. 
7. Marvel (and shake your head repeatedly) at the volume of stuff you seem to have accumulated. 
8. Wander around as you pathetically fail help them do their job. 
9. Choose around now in the process to look for very important visa documentation, that has accidentally packed away. 
10. Stand outside looking at the truck, as would a small child watching a construction site. 
NOTE: The final things that should be packed, and the first to be shipped, should be your computing equipment. Stop your iTunes sync halfway through completion to make sure you have no complete albums for the trip ahead. 
11. Wave goodbye to your stuff, as it might be the last time you see it. 
12. Inform your friends it is now too late to return borrowed items. Voila!
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Freitag I’m In Love
Final step on our super-quick European tour was Zurich, where our airplane was going to be leaving from, and where we had to return the rental car to. I had visited Switzerland a couple of times as a kid, but never as an adult, and never any of the cities.
As a place to drop into for 24 hours, it was absolutely perfect. Hook up with a local for some recommendations, strap on the boots and the camera, and prepare yourself for some preposterously cute little streets and deftly attired people in bijou cafes.
Getting brunch in Zurich institution, Sprüngli. Feeling like Tyler Brûlée selecting our coffees, we sat and enjoyed watching sartorial old ladies and gentlemen come and go; and then watch young people seemingly wearing the same clothes do the same thing. Expensive – but dead nice. 
I have a policy of climbing the tallest things I can find in a new city. From Fraumunster, it was possible to see just how absurdly small the place is – like a little chocolate box of lanes and little eateries. The streets had a slightly similar feel to Paris, I thought. 
Patterns of use 
Drinks at Cabaret Voltaire; home of the Dadaist movement. 
Public transport 
Catching up with old friend Phil was a pleasure – an old colleague from DEM, now living it up in Zurich! 
Potential energy 
Even though the exchange rate is exorbitant right now, I still had to visit the Freitag store and get myself a replacement for my previous one, which was virtually falling apart. 
Climbing to the top, naturally. 
The last of our Swiss Francs were spent in the Jules Verne observatory – a fabulously kitsch bar with a working observatory on the roof – hilarious! -
Würzburg
It’s been a while since I met Robbie, my flatmate and one of my best friends while at university in Glasgow. We actually managed to link up in Kyoto, while he was at a neuroscience conference (it’s not exactly brain surgery), but this was the first time I have managed to visit his grown-up home (not counting the family home in Göttingen).
Driving up from Konstanz to the northern tip of Bavaria, Wurzburg finds itself in the wine-growing region of the country. I can confirm this to be a fact, as each time we crossed the bridge from one side of the town to the other, we had a glass of wine. It was like some kind of adolescent fairy-tale.
Coinciding with Halloween, we went to one of Robbie’s PHD student’s party, and won second prize for dressing up as a pair of spectacles; photos on the way!
Wine routine 
Crossing the bridge was always enjoyable! 
… others agree. 
Sky, reflected 
A very pretty Roman university town; much like Cambridge I suppose. 
The tower in the castle, where they would throw prisoners in the top, they would fall to the bottom, and if they were lucky they had the opportunity to moan and scream, warning others to avoid their misdemeanours.. 
It's amazing how much mess a single tree can make. 
Robbie preparing his costume. -
Hong Kong Electric
Invariably, Asian electricity companies have the best logos in the world. Hong Kong holds deep and special memories for me. It was the first place I landed in Asia, touching-down on the way to Taiwan for the first time, it was the first ‘foreign’ place I went to after arriving on the island, it was a weekend transit hub for many of my trips to China, and it ended up being a place that some of my best friends called home. It will forever be a just a little bit magical.
The plan was to stretch out our layover to London with a day running around (traditional, I might say!). We ended up meeting Sam at Bloomberg, accidentally got on TV (twice!), relaxed with afternoon beers on Lamma, and ended up with food at the hilarious American Restaurant. Poignant goodbyes, but I shall be back soon!
It shouldn't, but in a lot of ways Hong Kong reminds me of San Francisco; the steep hills, definitive skyline, and entertaining mix of transport modes and walkability. 
Messing about on the boat 
Sunset in Lamma 
Heading back to the city to meet Michael for dinner 
Sam looking moody on the tram. 
They keep on saying they are going to replace the old wooden trams; I say I believe it when I see it. They are fun though (when it's not rush hour at least). 
One day I need to get my name up there. 
Zai Jian! 
Looking back. 
Poking my camera out of the taxi one last time. What a city! -
UK Return
Sadly, last month we received that Granny, Catherine John, had passed away. A central figure in our family, her influence permeates through her children, her grand children and now their own families. Her creativity, humour, voracious appetite for news and love for her family, will be greatly missed.
In contrast to previous trips back home, visiting friends, spending time with family or attending weddings, this was a more sombre affair. Still, it was a fabulous opportunity to meet with family members that I have not seen in years, and marvel at the rate of growth of the youngsters, many now with their own dreams and aspirations.
One week is not a huge amount of time, but it was enough to complete a solid round of decompression and tea drinking in Cambridge, run up to the Derbyshire hills to get some hiking in, and across to Wales for the service.
Cambridge
I wanted to spend as much time as possible with the folks, Ele and Dave, and of course Benjamin as possible. So, predictably perhaps, most of my photos feature the star of the show!
Benjamin is king of the world 
Obviously a candidate for a modelling competition 
He is still in the early stages of learning to talk, so his powerful pointing finger is key in his ability to communicate. I was deeply impressed with how much information he could convey through the sign language he as been taught, though. 
Taking Benjamin on the guided bus out to St. Ives for the first time. What fun! (the bus even had wifi!) 
Butter would not melt in his mouth … 
Clotted cream, on the other hand, very much would. 
Marvelling at the physics-defying helium balloon that we had found for him. 
He was emphatic in wanting me to sit down next to him. The step somewhat suited his leg length more than mine, however. 
A view of The Fens; windmill, cyclist, and a flat landscape. The guided bus really shifts though – 60mph along those concrete tracks 
Taking Benjamin out for the day at the park 
Working out how to use the slide feet first 
Slightly less sure about spinning around and around 
Even less sure about the height of the slide … but getting more confident every day! 
On Skype back to Taiwan – do they have to try to be this cute? 
Benjamin gives me a snuggle for good measure. Wales
The ceremony was very moving, tied together with a thoughtful speech from my cousin Hannah, who managed to speak for all of us on the day.
Taking it all in – we all had our own stories 
… and evidence was everywhere that she was not too far away 
Despite the sad day, it was still fantastic to see family 
Messing around on the grass 
Family members catch up 
The local rugby club did a great job of hosting drinks after the event. 
Making a run for it! 
Picture updates of the next addition! 
Mums look proud Derbyshire
With construction on the house on-going, we managed to grab a couple of days up north, staying at The Cavendish Hotel in Baslow. Retracing some of my early mountain biking steps, we hiked along the ridges overlooking the valleys, and spent the next day sauntering over to Chatsworth before being stunned by an impromptu Red Arrows display while packing the car up. Derbyshire always delivers the goods.
Our hotel in Derbyshire, near Chatsworth was great, although it was all we could do not to continually quote Rob Brydon and Steve Coogan's 'The Trip' 
DEAD SLOW. HOOT 
Exit sign 
A walk through the hills I think was what we needed 
Views across the peaks were not spectacular, but a good reward for the climb (and even better preparation for a pint at the pub). 
Bouquet 
As we were just getting back to the house, we were amazed to see The Red Arrows fly by overhead. We were treated to a fifteen-minute display – their first day since they sadly lost a pilot – for the crowds down at the country fair at Chatsworth house. Granny would have loved it. -
Alamere Falls Hike
The day after our kitsch night out, we planned to escape the city and head for the hills. Joining friends from Facebook and Google, we drove over the Golden Gate and into Marin County. It was all very odd with Abe and Armando; we are 30-ish year guys and we have never been in a car with one of the others driving … the same thing with almost all of my Asia-based friends, in fact. Unthinkable in Europe or the USA.
Atmospherics 
Arachnid Making a beeline for Alamere Falls in Marin county, we hit Taipei-levels of traffic as people headed out to make the most of the holiday weekend. Our late start then bled into massive delays, and we arrived at the trail head at about 4pm. Since the sun was likely to set at about 8pm, we decided to strap on our shoes and go for it.
We wound our way through majestic redwoods, light pouring through and the sound of the sea filtering through the birdsong: oh how I wish Taiwan had a more temperate climate, otherwise I would be doing this every weekend!
Breaking through the trees, we began the final descent towards the cliffs, a substantial stream picking its way down through the rocks on its way to the ocean. Gathering to take triumphant photos at the base of the waterfall, it was fantastic to be in such a beautiful place with so many good friends.
Stepping out … a little later than we first planned! 
Big trees demand a big lens 
Peeking over the horizon and thinking of Taiwan on the other side! 
The first of the falls heading down towards the beach. 
Gorgeous! 
JAZZ HANDS! 
‘I was young and I needed the money’ 
Yay! 
Abe art directs the photo of a perfect Californian view. Armando has other plans. 
As a direct result of our tardy start, we enjoyed some pretty amazing light and views across the trees. 
Sunshine account in the red. 
Seeing this photo, I couldn’t help but think of Japanese photographer Hiroshi Sugimoto, who did the last U2 album cover 
Team Jazz Hands! And a note to myself and the people that were there … ‘deaf hands!’
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Jazz Hands
Cal – I – For – Ni – A Explaining why three male, unmarried room mates from Taipei were in San Francisco for ‘entirely independent’ reasons, raised some eyebrows amongst the people that we met. But honest, Abe was visiting family, Armando was jetting through en-route to Austin, and I was leaving Texas on the way back to Asia. These things don’t happen an awful lot, so I was bursting to see what it would be like to meet them in a country where we all speak the same language as the locals.
Through some minor level of planning, we found ourselves on a night out in a relic of 1970s kitcsh, The Tonga Room, complete with Filipino funk band that floats out into the middle of a small lake in the middle of the bar, and retreats again when the rain starts pouring down (yes).
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I guess I am as transfixed by the double-decker trains as foreigners are by double-decker buses in the UK. 
View from my room across the roof tops 
California metal Badly made cocktails, silly dancing and some sore heads set us up for a great morning of brunching and procrastinating on starting a hike off in Marin county…
