Tag: China

  • Expo Shanghai

    “China, meet World.  World, meet China.”

    It’s statement is pretty clear.

    World Fairs and Expositions are a chance for the nations of the world to trade ideas and peddle their cultural and industrial wares.  This year’s show, held in an emergent and increasingly confident Shanghai, seems to be less for the benefit of the global community, and rather a chance for the people of China to experience the world they are set to inherit.

    If the future is reflected between the pavilions and edifices, it is one full of Chinese people.  Over 52 million people have visited the fair thus far, and even though I chose a quiet Tuesday evening to attend, queues stretched around the (futurist) block.  After seeing the line-up for the British pavilion stretch past the two-hour marker, and similarly long lines for the other ‘blue chip’ countries, I decided not to enter any pavilions at all.  Nope – if someone asks me which countries I visited, I am not about to say ‘Belgium and The Philippines’; I would simply prefer to spend more time walking around and taking it all in.

    So, starting roughly in the middle with Europe (America is comically marginalised at the absolute extreme far end of the site), I began my international stroll.  The British pavilion, designed by Thomas Heatherwick, was a triumph; and possibly even more dramatic than the huge, Blade Runner-esque Chinese building.  People gawped (me included) at the explosion of rods, seemly frozen in time and hanging in mid-air, as if smoke.  Rounding it a couple of times, it was interesting to compare it to some of the adjacent sites which were lighter on drama and heavier on content.  Italy and Spain both seemed to be far more full of actual things to look at and do, and others were at least packed with restaurants; most of the Norway site was filled with its Salmon restaurant, and Belgium even featured a chip van parked out the front (I do admit to stopping their for a refuel).

    Rule Britannia … one thing I like about the design, is that it seems to accidentally mimic the Union flag.  What can I say – I guess it felt good to see the flag flying in front.

    Amorphous shape.

    On the fence.

    What must they think?

    Subtle commercial activities.

    Other blatant political messages dotted the site.  The aforementioned Taiwanese pavilion, themed like a sky lantern, was placed within arms reach of China, only slightly further away than Macao and Hong Kong.  And much like America, Japan was placed at the absolute far end of the site, keeping Kazakhstan and Vietnam company.  Meanwhile, Koreas North and South were separated by the major walkway linking the site together.  Laying out the plots must have been akin to organising a wedding banquet.

    Click to see who is on China’s Christmas card list this year.

    Plenty of eco-ness pervaded the event, but you can’t help but wonder about the amount of energy used to transform the site, and ferry the legions of people in.  While pavilions such as New Zealand made proud boasts about the amount of energy they were using, others (notably Taiwan) seemed to take it upon themselves to fuel those solar panels through the night with an wanton display of LED-showmanship.  2010 is clearly the coming-out party for the humble LED as an architectural element.

    And just as my feet were beginning to get tired, it suddenly struck me what the whole thing felt like.  It was like visiting a showroom for domestic and international airports, all clustered together in one site.  Without the airplanes, of course, but still with the faint feeling that you were just about to pick up your luggage.

    I actually attended the Hanover Expo, ten years previously, and I think I was left with the same impression; numbness.  Disney without the rides.  Airports without planes.  Experience, but without the understanding.

    Yep – even the UN gets their own pavilion.

    Spain’s was huge, and covered in door mats.

    People really enjoyed the fashion show outside Germany’s building.

    The Greek pavilion.

    Some areas of the world made more effort than others.

    The show, of course, was not really for international visitors; it was for the legions of Chinese, coming in from other cities and towns; it was amazing to see the variety of faces, and equally humbling to think about the reactions that they would be having to some of the more ‘challenging’ pavilions (like the UK), when they probably would have been perfectly happy with a fake castle.

    A light show from Taiwan… looking up to big brother on the other side of the walkway.

    Let’s hope your next project isn’t, well, Taiwan.

  • Land of the Rising Sun

    Well, it’s been a while, Shanghai, but it’s good to be back; a great night out with Gerhard and the Shanghai design mafia, and home in time to see the sunrise from the 49th floor.  I might regret this tomorrow!

    Before I head out.

    Macdonalds on the edge of Zhongshan park, punctuating the darkness.

  • Taikang Road

    So I am here in China for the first time in six months or so; at least since joining the Latitude design team.

    I am here during Expo, and I will be sure to take the chance to go and take a look at it in the next fortnight, hopefully finding a way to avoid some of the worst queues. But before I even step foot in the Expo, I can see the collateral effects that it is having on the city.

    Taikang Road (where I am sitting right now) was one of my favourite design spots in the city, always offering an easily-accessible good vibe, some interesting design, and all washed down with a good cappuccino.

    Now? Well there are still the design shops, but it’s been heavily cleaned up, and some of the more interesting businesses have made way for little more than tourist nick-nack outlets. Not unpleasant, exactly, but it’s certainly lost some of the pioneering atmosphere that it once had.

    I suppose every ex-pat had the same stories; “I remember when this place was authentic.”. At least it has not been demolished to make way for a shopping centre – though the street opposite has managed to sprout one in the last six months.

    What’s the next project for China after the Olympics and Expo? I asked the taxi driver this afternoon if China could just relax for a bit, and he laughed a knowing laugh of “no, our next project is the world.”

  • Shanghai Quickie


    View from my hotel room – I am quite a big fan of the Renaissance in Shanghai – not super downtown, but close enough.

    It also floats above Zhongshan Park, which I had written about before. It’s quite a pleasure to drop in on the way to the Shanghai Dell offices, and get a little slice of everyday Chinese life before logging into the old e-mail.


    Old dudes together, found everywhere in the world.


    Pleasure boats, lined up for a weekend of action.


    Practice makes perfect.

    As has happened with Hong Kong, it’s a little strange to realise that the regular trips I make there are becoming routine. When people ask ‘hey, how was the Shanghai trip?’ it seems terribly spoiled to say ‘oh, normal’ … it just doesn’t cut it!

    I think much of that is down to losing some great friends from the city (now in Germany and … well, I am not too sure), and I am building up some new links and all. It will get its mojo back, of this I have no doubt.

    Next trip for me though, is of course Miami … still blows me away that I will be there in a matter of weeks!

  • Shanghai Tools


    The right tools for the right job (notice the saw, for cutting that huge diameter of pipe). Of course, four people need to watch at all times, in China.


    It shouldn’t, but I found myself exceedingly amused by seeing a scooter on fire while on the way to a factory visit.

  • Total Eclipse of the Heart

    The longest eclipse of the sun for 300 years, and only my second total eclipse ever … and it was raining!

    Still, lots of fun running outside the China Dell office rattling off a bunch of shots. Thought it was rather amusing to see lights going on in the apartment buildings around the plaza … how inconvenient an eclipse must be when you have things to do.


    Flash. Interesting to see how much video was shot of the sky on cell phones. Those tones of grey and black you will surely be showing your grand children!


    Star gazing.


    Even quicker than it arrived, the rain disappeared and the light returned.


    Time to call your friends and tell them about it!

  • Ye Shanghai

    In Shanghai and Hong Kong for a few days of business and pleasure.

    I haven’t quite found time enough to talk about the amazing number of visitors to Taiwan in the last couple of weeks, and indeed my intrepid parents in New Zealand, but I promise I shall soon!


    View in the other direction from my hotel – think I prefer the park-side view!

  • Music & Aesthetics

    Steve blagged some journo tickets to see the National China Beijing Opera as they visited town for their one-off Sunday night review, and it gave me the chance to have my first ever taste of this form of theatre that one might assume everyone sees on a regular basis when living in Taiwan or China. It wasn’t quite the Full Monty – instead the performers wore suits and refrained from the make-up – but a line-up of virtuosos from China and Taiwan had been (re)assembled, and clearly peoples’ emotions were piqued.


    Photo from www.artsticket.com.tw

    First impressions were, at best mixed. Cacophonous musical barrage ballons that mark the style of music butted up against the entirely-too-harmonios stage design and pastel presentation.

    Set in an environment where we were the only foreign / under 50 people in the house, it all made for a rather strange experience. The crowd heckled and clapped at seemingly entirely random points during each set, screaming out in appreciation as might a crowd of Rolling Stones fans. And yet, when I felt moved, the crowd remained silent.

    This continued throughout the performance, and I have been thinking about it a great deal over the past few days. Essentially, in the same way as the music that I constantantly critisise in Taiwanese for being bland and monotonous, this music seemed to be rewarded by this crowd of octogenerians not for being expressive, but for restraint. Not for the performer letting go, but for surfing the boundary within a tightly defined set of constraints. As Steve put it so perfectly, the entire ‘Aesthetic’ of the music was completely different – harmony and riot, restraint and revolt are flipped on its head.

    So, after almost five years in Taiwan, perhaps I understand something a little bit more, and maybe this window into music also allows me to see how the design scene here rewards restraint and operating between the boundaries. Need to think about that some more.

    Finally, while leaving, I realised just how many of the crowd spoke not in a Taiwanese accent, but in thicker tones of Northern China. It’s doubtful that they were tourists, or that they travelled to Taiwan especially for the concert, so it only means that this ‘scene’ of elderly Opera lovers were left stranded here to appreciate the artform. And on this day, the best performers from Taiwan and China came together, spanning old maestros and the considerable battalion of young artists that have chosen to fly the flag once again. It might not quite be to my taste, but it felt pretty special to see the tendrils of tradition reaching out across the waters to bang the drum.

  • Zhongshan Park


    Zhongshan Park from my hotel room

    I wait six months to travel with Dell, and then I travel twice in three weeks. Can’t complain.

    High above Zhongshan Park, through my hotel window I looked down each morning to throngs of people doing Taiqi, flying kites and ballroom dancing. It was clear that I had to get down in between the people, and I am glad I did – all the stereotypes I have happily built up are true.


    Perfectly synchronised Taiqi


    Hot stuff


    Some rather stylish ballroom dancing


    These guys really spent some time trying to persuade me to have a Taiqi lesson … very friendly chaps.


    It’s pretty awesome how active old people are out here – learning new things and obviously enjoying themselves while doing it.


    … and some just chill out.


    … and some are clearly a little confused.


    The guys with the birds remind me of my first trip to Hong Kong bird park – now just round the corner from Tanja and Michael.

    I think this is about my fourth or fifth trip to Shanghai, so it is fair to say I have got used to the place and know my way around fairly well. None the less, I am always surprised at the pace of development here, and it makes the already quickly developing Taipei seem like a backwater. It is for this and other reasons that I am really quite excited about the direct flights from Taipei (and the downtown airport no less!) to Shanghai. I lose my convenient excuse to drop in to see Hong Kong, but on the other hand the cost of flights out to HK must be plummeting right now, so maybe it is all good.


    Crane city – though I was told by Gerhard that last month in Shanghai, zero properties were sold or exchanged. Hard to believe, but it is clear that the credit crisis is hitting hard.


    My trip coincided again with Pecha Kucha, with lots of architects talking earnestly about building things from carrot shavings and recycled Freitag bags. I guess they will all be flying home for Christmas and knocking out any potential savings they had made thus far that year.


    Wandering the ever larger reclaimed area around Taikang Rd. Every time I go there are more and more cool places to see, and all the time the Chinese locals continue to stay there, creating a funny combination of washing hanging out and Grafitti.


    On the one hand in Shanghai, there are loads of wee little cool design shops and boutiques – especially in the French Quarter. On the other hand, wandering around of an evening looking for some standard noodles or rice is not easy. I’ll have to settle for the Gorgonzola Balsamic Salad again. Life is hard.


    And I finally got to see Coco – friends with Nelson from his previous life in Shanghai. A real pleasure, and an institution of ‘old Shanghai’.

    And while I might know my way round better, I was getting frustrated that my taxi trips across the city were completely inefficient, so I geekily have started adding my fave places in a Google Map – you can see it below.


    View Larger Map

  • Shanghai at Work

    It took six months, but I finally navigated the corporate travel application system to jump on a plane (well, two – I missed out on the direct flight) to run over to Shanghai for three days of meetings. A tough few days in the saddle, but I did manage to make some time to meet with fellow designers Gerhard and Klara. But it ain’t the same without Anke and Lars!

    We jumped in the ‘Great Wall’ SUV with a view to checking out the new bars and restaurants in the top the new Shanghai World Financial Centre – or, the ‘Bottle Opener’ – now the tallest building in the world at the roof (other buildings cheat I think with enormous masts and spikes). Although we couldn’t get up to the helipad, situated in the middle of the hole, we did get a guided tour of the entire three floors of bars and meeting rooms, since the official opening is actually next week. Pretty bloody impressive, quaffing drinks above the Pearl TV Tower!


    Blade of light


    A quite remarkable view, floating above The Bund and the Pearl TV Tower.


    Team Asia – Shanghai Chapter


    … and after, we ran over to the Hyatt to stare down the 44 floor lobby. Completely nuts. If I had dropped the camera someone would surely have died – it felt more like something from Star Wars.