Americans take their weekends very seriously – far more so than us lazy Europeans, who have lengthy holidays allotted to us. One of the local get-aways is to Russian River, an hour or two north of the Bay and nestled in some of the finest hills (and vineyards) in the country. Lauryn and I opted, for our first weekend away, to find a guest house in the charming town of Guerneville. A town that later revealed itself as the destination for outdoorsy gay community of San Francisco; the Rainbow Cattle Company bar name should have given it away! (www.queersteer.com)
Still, a nice weekend away from the city, spent hiking, drinking and eating good food. I shall no doubt be back.
View across the hills to the Korbel wine plantations (ironically, the codename for my final project at Dell – you can’t escape!)Said hills. Very purdy.Depth of field … I am not finding myself playing with my SLR as much these days … but it is fun when I do.Signs of FallThe sun, cascading through the treesDawn. Ish.
Taking advantage of the extended Memorial Day weekend, I tacked on an extra day and winged it away from the West Coast for a weekend in New York City. What a place; I had visited in my early twenties, but it makes a major difference when you have local friends to visit and, crucially, a credit card.
First impression: the people are far more friendly and polite than I realised. Ticket collectors forgave my mistakes on the trains, strangers waved me towards the correct subway stop, people held doors open for me and random acts of kindness and humour caught me off-guard. The combination of awe-inspiring vertical scale, surprisingly large horizontal distances needed to traverse the place and warped sense of horizon and perspective, combined with these little bits of humane magic, make for an addictive combination.
I managed to spend a solid chunk of time with some great people. Yes, people, I have New York friends; Mia and Brian of San Francisco fame, and then Matt Landman, who I know through Ken in Taiwan, and had only ever met once in an evening of insane metal and rock.
Highlights: getting caught on the ferry in the rain and walking up Manhattan using the freeways as shelter, an evening on top of ’30 Rock’ – The Rockefeller Center, and wandering through Brooklyn, fire hydrants opened up to drench the local kids with cooling water. Did I mention how hot the weather was?
Since New York is about half way back to London (insane, no?), I can imagine I will be back here soon.
View from Brian's apartment to the streets belowBrian displaying his perma-Sartorialist.com abilitiesThe sense of perspective in this space is wonderfully warpedStandard issue taxi cab shotNew York feels simultaneously more American, and European at the same time, compared to San FranciscoV22 Osprey Tiltrotor Crazycopters were circling Manhattan for the whole time – I thought they had been decommissioned for safety reasonsModesty (Instagram)Sheltering from the rain (Instagram)Brunch at Freemans … and as it turns out the same chain as where I get my hair cut in SFThe skyline – never anything less than amazingWilliamsburg – hipster central. I swear I did not pose this shot. Ridiculous.5th AvenueI was obsessed with what people were wearing; so much more stylish than San Francisco or TaipeiPublic artwork more common than in California41 Cooper Square – by Thom MayneShadows of Train TracksCatching up with Mr. Matt LandmanMia rocks the grafDelighted to see fire hydrants opened up everywhere in Brooklyn for impromptu street parties – I thought this only happened in the movies. I was expecting the Sesame Street cast to walk past at any moment.
I had the pleasure of Sam swinging by for a week of mountain biking and food. Some awesome days in the saddle, hitting up trails in Marin, the Peninsula, and then a fine finale riding out of Santa Cruise, and up to see the Amgen Tour of California cruise by. Good times!
The only way to sense the scale is to look at the trees on the left, and realise that they are … trees.
Language is funny. You spend the year throwing around superlatives, describing new features on Facebook or the texture of your new favourite Burrito, and are then totally disarmed when you go somewhere like Yosemite, and faced with things that really are ‘awesome’ (in the base sense of the word), ‘massive’ (as in, unimaginably heavy’?) and ‘amazing’ (oh come on). Without the ability to describe anything in a meaningful way, all you can gawp and try in vain to compare it to other places that you have been, and mostly failing.
Yosemite is ridiculously, completely unnecessarily gorgeous. Like a set from a Star Trek movie (perhaps one of the pleasure planets where people run around in togas and seduce secondary members of crew into a life of endless procreation), there is forever a CGI waterfall in the background and vistas stretching off into the distance.
Four days of unbroken sun above our heads, snow underfoot, and yet weather warm enough for t-shirts was a perfect backdrop for enjoying a birthday with my family. Great food, wonderful company, and an awesome location; literally.
Entrance to the valley, on some of the finest roads in California (not saying too much, there).Mum and Dad enjoy the vista. It's impossible to stop yourself from screeching to a halt in each siding to enjoy the views on offer.El Capitan rock – a genius of naming.Incredible arcs of rock look like an impressionist; the brain is not capable of dealing with such scale for more than a few minutes.A good day to fly overheadFirst major hike of the weekend, up past the snow line.The same waterfall features in most of the images.Switchbacks – ah for my mountain bike.Don't look down!Oh look.Half dome on the left, and more waterfalls on the right – we hiked up to the first one the next day.Attempting to link up with the previous day's hike … we turned back after we decided it was getting a bit hairy … it's hard to appreciate, but there was a substantial cliff to the direct left side of this.Instagram delivering the goods again the next day in our hike up to the falls.One thing I love about my Mum is that we notice the same things at the same time.Back to the house for the most delicious possible artichokes. Mum & Dad drove through the 'Artichoke Capital of the World', and we spent the weekend laughing about it until we actually tasted the things.
Final step on our super-quick European tour was Zurich, where our airplane was going to be leaving from, and where we had to return the rental car to. I had visited Switzerland a couple of times as a kid, but never as an adult, and never any of the cities.
As a place to drop into for 24 hours, it was absolutely perfect. Hook up with a local for some recommendations, strap on the boots and the camera, and prepare yourself for some preposterously cute little streets and deftly attired people in bijou cafes.
It’s been a while since I met Robbie, my flatmate and one of my best friends while at university in Glasgow. We actually managed to link up in Kyoto, while he was at a neuroscience conference (it’s not exactly brain surgery), but this was the first time I have managed to visit his grown-up home (not counting the family home in Göttingen).
Driving up from Konstanz to the northern tip of Bavaria, Wurzburg finds itself in the wine-growing region of the country. I can confirm this to be a fact, as each time we crossed the bridge from one side of the town to the other, we had a glass of wine. It was like some kind of adolescent fairy-tale.
Coinciding with Halloween, we went to one of Robbie’s PHD student’s party, and won second prize for dressing up as a pair of spectacles; photos on the way!
Wine routineCrossing the bridge was always enjoyable!… others agree.Sky, reflectedA very pretty Roman university town; much like Cambridge I suppose.The tower in the castle, where they would throw prisoners in the top, they would fall to the bottom, and if they were lucky they had the opportunity to moan and scream, warning others to avoid their misdemeanours..It's amazing how much mess a single tree can make.Robbie preparing his costume.
A lovely little excursion through the roundabout-strewn Switzerland, to Bregenz in Austria, up a cable car, down to Lindau in Germany, and back in time for dinner. Not bad!
ParklifeTop of the world – Pfänder MountainContrailsViews to the AlpsAutumn lightThe Bodensee was stunning in the stark lightI imagine the previous transport significance of Lake Konstanz cannot be overstated …… hence the ridiculous edifices at each end of the lake
Perfectly sandwiching my arrival at Dell three and a half years prior, Yuyin and I decided to swap one Pacific island for another.
Ostensibly to celebrate the wedding of Nelson and Christina, it was also a great opportunity to catch up with old friend Rich and plot some serious R&R time. Opting to stay in the heart of teeming Seminyak, it landed us within striking distance of some fantastic beaches, beautiful tourist spots and great food.
Anyway, here are some of my highlights:
Splish splash – no complaints about the pool in our villaKen calls from Taiwan and I make sure proceedings are interrupted for a quick call.Standard issue Aviator shotA blow-out on the ride up to Bedegul meant an emergency tyre swap – and this was after running out of fuel earlier on in the journey!Easy rider (s)Sadly, this was the view for much of the trip around the local area – traffic and overcrowding.
Potato Head
This trip to Bali was a professional inspiration for two reasons; one, an eye-opening trip to the extravagant new bar ‘Potato Head Beach Club’, and second a trip to the motorcycle custom shop, Deus Ex Machina (more of that later).
Utilising authentically used shutters from around the island, they have constructed an egg-shaped cocoon structure, wrapping up a little slice of Malibu from the other side of the Pacific ocean. Locating ourselves at the back, huge waves were framed by the building on the sides, and an infinity pool at the base. The sense of occasion upon arrival was matched well with the prices of the drinks – we opted for a ‘cocktail to share’ and could barely scrape ourselves off the sofa by the time we reached the bottom of the glass.
Blue skiesWindowsThe entrance gangway up the side of the buildingTremedous view of the ocean, punctuated by palm trees and beautiful peopleThe start of our destructionA very handsome-looking communal dining areaThe infinity pool (keeping the great unwashed at bay, beyond)Shutters lining the roof inside
A very nicely executed aesthetic (which looked fabulous at night, by the way) but amazingly only sporting a single set of toilets for the entire bar, and apparently everyone gets wet when it rains; not so cool.
Sign of the times, their website is ‘on progress’ while their Facebook page is clearly thriving.
Padang Padang Beach
Away from the main tourist drag in Kuta and Seminyak, there are some fabulous beaches. Jimbaran to the south is littered with the things and we pretty much had to flip a coin to pick one. Padang Padang won out, and after a little while looking for it, it revealed itself as a charming little cove with light surf, tucked away at the base of a cliff and beyond a dramatic walk down via a seam in the rock.
The entrance route could not have been better designedPrepping our equipmentMy view for much of the dayI have been using a Sony Reader of late and enjoyed being able to take a stack of books with me to the beach.I would not want to do this with an iPadYuyin clearly enjoying herself!Panoramic view – click for more details… and one from the other angleTools of the tradeSurfs up at the end of the day
Menega Cafe
Some of my most memorable food on my last trip here with Rich, was at Menega Cafe, down in Jimbaran. Clams and shrimp doused in a deliciously tangy sauce were washed down perfectly with a couple of Bintangs, another gorgeous sunset, and gawping at the tourists taking embarrassing photographs of each other.
A long-suffering husband followed his wife up and down the beach, looking for the perfect shotIt was all we could do to contain our laughterYuyin expressing her love for SpongebobWicked, wicked foodOne interesting thing was plotting the rise of Chinese tourists to Bali. Simplified Chinese had knocked out traditional script, and hopeful streetfood sellers were daubing their flag over their carts in hope of attracting their business.The tasty carcinogen zone
Tanah Lot Temple
Since both Yuyin and I had been to Bali before and ticked off many of the main tourist tick boxes, we were able to focus on some lesser-known attractions. One that had escaped my net last time was Tanah Lot – an extraordinary outcrop of rock populated with decorations and religious ornament. While fully detached at high-tide, at low tide one is able to wander around it with hundreds of other like-minded individuals. As is often the case though, step a few metres away from the obvious main path, and you are rewarded with near solitude.
The temple from aboveYuyin taking photos of me taking photosCaught in the actInteresting rock formationsReturning back to civilisationHappy!One of the nearby outcrops, with a refreshing lack of safety equipment between visitors and the rocks belowBali roof details
Deus Ex Machina
There was no struggle. They caught me hook, line and sinker. Custom motorbikes. Custom surf and skateboards. Custom bicycles. Great food. Cute girls. Fantastic architecture. Impeccable story. I stood no hope, and bought what Deus Ex Machina really wanted my there for; their booming t-shirt and clothing business. But my oh my, such fantastic concept and execution. Please let me work here. I want to be you.
Started in Australia, expanding to the USA, it makes perfect sense to have a location metres away from the pro-surf hot spot of Indonesia. I stood no chance.The starting point; some utterly stock Yamaha sports bikes.What you end up with – a slice of attitude. Sign me up.While also working over British classics and American slabs of iron, I appreciated the fact that they had no qualms working with more modest local starting points.What you can expect if you drop a little more cash; Dues Ex Machina – 'The Mono'Touring the facilities.Panel bashing – I wonder if the company owners have more ergonomic chairs.Ideas for my future tool shed
And on to their surf boards and other toys…
BirthImpeccable graphics and choice of colours and materialsAlmost ready for its first test driveYes, they have their own fully kitted-out photography studioThe real reason we were all here todayThe collection of buildings near Canggu beach
Canggu Beach
Canggu beach makes for a more rugged experience than most of the other locations. Bigger surf, more aggressive waves in-shore and less cover meant it was limited to us, some pro-surfers, and some local horse riders. No trinket peddlers and a more raw atmosphere was a refreshing change from the manicured spots on the rest of the island.
Surf's upSunset on horseback
So that’s it … came, saw … and bought the t-shirt (willingly I might add).
Sadly, last month we received that Granny, Catherine John, had passed away. A central figure in our family, her influence permeates through her children, her grand children and now their own families. Her creativity, humour, voracious appetite for news and love for her family, will be greatly missed.
In contrast to previous trips back home, visiting friends, spending time with family or attending weddings, this was a more sombre affair. Still, it was a fabulous opportunity to meet with family members that I have not seen in years, and marvel at the rate of growth of the youngsters, many now with their own dreams and aspirations.
One week is not a huge amount of time, but it was enough to complete a solid round of decompression and tea drinking in Cambridge, run up to the Derbyshire hills to get some hiking in, and across to Wales for the service.
Cambridge
I wanted to spend as much time as possible with the folks, Ele and Dave, and of course Benjamin as possible. So, predictably perhaps, most of my photos feature the star of the show!
Benjamin is king of the worldObviously a candidate for a modelling competitionHe is still in the early stages of learning to talk, so his powerful pointing finger is key in his ability to communicate. I was deeply impressed with how much information he could convey through the sign language he as been taught, though.Taking Benjamin on the guided bus out to St. Ives for the first time. What fun! (the bus even had wifi!)Butter would not melt in his mouth …Clotted cream, on the other hand, very much would.Marvelling at the physics-defying helium balloon that we had found for him.He was emphatic in wanting me to sit down next to him. The step somewhat suited his leg length more than mine, however.A view of The Fens; windmill, cyclist, and a flat landscape. The guided bus really shifts though – 60mph along those concrete tracksTaking Benjamin out for the day at the parkWorking out how to use the slide feet firstSlightly less sure about spinning around and aroundEven less sure about the height of the slide … but getting more confident every day!On Skype back to Taiwan – do they have to try to be this cute?Benjamin gives me a snuggle for good measure.
Wales
The ceremony was very moving, tied together with a thoughtful speech from my cousin Hannah, who managed to speak for all of us on the day.
Taking it all in – we all had our own stories… and evidence was everywhere that she was not too far awayDespite the sad day, it was still fantastic to see familyMessing around on the grassFamily members catch upThe local rugby club did a great job of hosting drinks after the event.Making a run for it!Picture updates of the next addition!Mums look proud
Derbyshire
With construction on the house on-going, we managed to grab a couple of days up north, staying at The Cavendish Hotel in Baslow. Retracing some of my early mountain biking steps, we hiked along the ridges overlooking the valleys, and spent the next day sauntering over to Chatsworth before being stunned by an impromptu Red Arrows display while packing the car up. Derbyshire always delivers the goods.
Our hotel in Derbyshire, near Chatsworth was great, although it was all we could do not to continually quote Rob Brydon and Steve Coogan's 'The Trip'DEAD SLOW. HOOTExit signA walk through the hills I think was what we neededViews across the peaks were not spectacular, but a good reward for the climb (and even better preparation for a pint at the pub).BouquetAs we were just getting back to the house, we were amazed to see The Red Arrows fly by overhead. We were treated to a fifteen-minute display – their first day since they sadly lost a pilot – for the crowds down at the country fair at Chatsworth house. Granny would have loved it.
Since last weekend was Yuyin’s birthday, she was already in Hong Kong on business, and I had 12,500 air miles from Cathay Pacific gifted to me (a trip to HK needs 15,000), the stars aligned and I jumped at the chance to have a weekend away from Taipei.
We have both been to HK multiple times in the past, so it was a nice opportunity to meet some good friends (Michael, Tanja, Edgar, Sam), do some birthday present shopping for each other, and explore some little corners of HK that we had not been to before. HK is good like that; you can just strap on a camera, pack a credit card, and go; and everything works itself out.
Yuyin looks over at the island from the Ocean CentreTaking the Star Ferry never gets old.Yuyin steals my camera as I sniff out a new passport cover in Lane Crawford. Luckily, I managed to avoid the overpriced stuff, and found a simple leather Tumi one.… and now the view from the IFC, looking over at the ICC Tower in Kowloon.Dinner in the evening was courtesy of Nha Trang; one of the freshest, tastiest meals I have had in a while. Here we are, waiting in the queue, looking up at the surrounding buildings.I think this photo rather sums up Hong Kong; steep hills, Ducatis, Mercedes, and people plying their trade in between.Shopping for rainbows.Couples having their wedding photos taken in front of Louis Vuitton; classy.Desert was provided by Sevva; overpriced, less than exceptional drinks and deserts, but a view to die for. Yuyin, I hope having a nice evening!Sevva; recommended for the view.Without really realising it, we decided to walk from Central (with some help from the ferry), via Kowloon, back to the hotel in Harbour city.Taking in the scenes at night time.Strange angles from the Kowloon Cultural centre.Weaving our way over roads and between buildings (and sometimes through them), we slowly made our way back.The walkways linking together Hong Kong are really an amazing thing. They stretch for miles, and offer a sort of pedestrian freeway network. In a city that seems so cyclist-hostile, pedestrians (or at least those not on wheels) are amazingly served.Getting close to our destination, and back into normal streets.
The next day, we opted to hang out by the rooftop pool for a while, and cruise over to an exhibition documenting the life of the ‘King of Kowloon’; Tsang Tsou Choi.
The King claimed to rule the whole peninsula of Kowloon, regardless of whatever treaties bound the sovereignty of Hong Kong to the British and the late Qing governments. Tsang issued his royal patents and decrees with his black ink and brushes on lampposts and walls. Some called it graffiti and the King kept toddling across the streets in Hong Kong to make sure his messages were known to the public.
It was a fascinating look at Hong Kong’s previous British rulers through the eyes of rather an eccentric local person. It would be interesting to know if his decrees and demands reflected a wider resentment about the British rule; my impression is that people look back at that time with fond memories, since the handover to China. Something to read more about. Information on the exhibition can be found here, and a review is here.
Looking down the strait between Hong Kong and Kowloon.Walls of residential apartments line the waterside. Land is at a premium here!Waiting for the ferry to the island. In contrast to the main Star Ferry, the side spur seems full of Indonesian workers and poorer locals; maybe it is different mid-week.I wonder if people in these apartments stare out at the fabulous views, or if people avoid views in the same way as Taipei.Said exhibition from above; even his passport was annotated with protests.Riding the trams in Hong Kong.Squeezing on… I heard rumours that they were phasing them out?… and here is a nice detail; we stumbled across one of Tsang's protest murals at the Star Ferry pier!
A great weekend … next time I head back, I bring my mountain bike!
