Tag: Taiwan

  • Climbing Yushan


    Yushan National Park, Taiwan

    It’s easy to get stuck in Taipei, and not make it out to see the rest of the island. Since I am regularly mountain biking in the hills around Taipei, I do make a better job than most at getting into nature; but I have not done a good job at getting into the high mountains of Taiwan.

    Yushan is the highest peak in East Asia, but is obviously beaten out by peaks in the Himalayas and several in SE Asia (see Wikipedia for some more info). In the last few years, I have signed up on a couple of different climbing trips, but was never successful at getting a place in the hut at the base of the final climb, subject as it is to lottery. Luckily (or unluckily) a Scottish friend was leaving Taiwan, and she decided to apply for climbing access, with success. Good news, and a perfect excuse for me to go and buy more hiking equipment.

    Rather than rush straight up on Friday, and begin the hike the next day, we opted to leave a day early and buy some time kicking around the Alishan Town area. At 2274m, it is already at a respectable altitude, and indeed some people on the team did not deal especially well with the lack of air. I could certainly sympathise, but was at least aware of the effects from previous skiing holidays; Val Thorens in France is located at about 2300m altitude.


    Forested Alishan was quiet – no doubt because the train was knocked out by Typhoon Morakot.


    Angles.


    Team Chris & Co.

    With an early-ish start the next day, we bussed it up to the start of the hike at 2595m. The mountains in that part of Taiwan are stunning, and beginning the hike was pure pleasure in the cool air and warm sunlight. Slowly gaining altitude, we passed bamboo forests, thickets of ancient trees (the ones that Japanese didn’t cut down in WWII) and stopped to gaze at ever more dramatic views of pristine forested valleys stretching into the distance.

    Due in no small part to our large ruck-sacks, concerns about how much water and food we needed, and plenty of extra dry clothes and insulation, we probably did over-pack a touch, and it was pretty slow going. We decided to keep it steady, however, and redistribute some of the extra weight between the stronger members of the group. None-the-less, we reached the point where daylight was beginning to fade and decided that an ‘avant-garde’ group should make it to the lodge and return to collect the other members – it was a decision I was not completely happy with, so I was delighted when the final pair of head-torches came bobbing up the hill through the darkness, 10km west of the starting point and 900-odd metres higher, at Paiyun Lodge (3402m).


    Shadows of my former-self.


    Views across the valleys were splendid.


    Granny gearing it up the hill.


    As clouds rolled in, everywhere looked like a scene from a traditional Chinese painting … and frankly the Taiwan I was expecting to see when I arrived a few years ago!


    Old-growth trees were pretty spiritually-uplifting.


    One or two moments of more extreme climbing, but nothing too hazardous.


    More paintings.


    More sunsets.


    You’ll have to check the Flickr feed to get the full effect I think.

    After a not especially hearty meal of instant noodles, freeze-dried rice curry, and chunks of dried fruit, washed down with ginger tea, it was time to hit the sack at about 8:30pm. I had certainly never slept at such elevation before, and sadly spent the night tossing and turning, tormented by an epic headache, mild nausea, a dry throat, and subsequent trips to the toilet to try and expel the water that I was knocking back to counteract it. Altitude sickness.

    Just to see the sunrise, waking at 2:30am therefore seemed like a bad joke. Beginning the hike, my heavy head and bags / luggage under my eyes were slightly relieved by Chris’ thoughtful packing of Diamox to counteract the effects (reading the Wikipedia entry now explains why I was peeing every ten minutes after taking it). It helped, but the pounding returned every time my heart rate went up, and as such climbing was an exercise in restraint, as my legs felt so much stronger than what my pounding head could handle.

    All-in-all, it felt like the final approach to Mordor, surrounded by near-darkness and staring up at pin-pricks of light coming from the head torches of teams of people that had managed to get up a little earlier than us. I was by far the coldest I have ever been in Taiwan; but was wearing just about enough clothes to fend off the shivers.

    Coming up to the final few hundred metres of the peak (sadly lacking a huge, burning, all-seeing eye), we again split up, and I left Tasha and Chris behind to make the final ascent. The rocks surrounding the peak require a bit of a scramble, but I felt pretty confident after the training session in Wales earlier in the year, up Snowdon, which is the highest mountain in Wales, and a lofty 1085m (Ben Nevis in Scotland is 1344m, which puts the whole endeavour in perspective).

    After several hours of climbing in the dark, it was a relief to make it to the top, and the sun duly emerged from behind the clouds to allow some respite from the frosty and sub-zero temperatures – the first encounter in Taiwan, bizarrely. I was expecting to be more ‘in the mood’ to compose more considered pictures, but the cold, blurry head and mild desire to get back down meant I rattled off a bunch of shots; and with the extremely high-contrast between light and dark up there it was not that easy to nail shots I was really happy with.


    Sunrise – finally! – we were immensely lucky with the weather, considering it is mid-November.


    Solitude.


    Conquistador.


    Tasha – yay!


    Tasha and Chris – our heroines of the day.


    In the mist.


    Descending down the initial track was not that straightforward.


    The views were magnificent.

    Beginning the descent, I was delighted to see the purple hood of Tasha and Chris slowly winching themselves up the final climb. Accompanying them to the top, I retraced my steps to the top, and I was glowing with pride to see them reach the top together. Very satisfying.

    Heading back down was harder on the knees, but it did not load the lungs in the same way, so we avoided the nausea and headaches. Noodles, drinks, dried fruit were doled out back at the lodge, and with a mild spring in our step we headed back down the hill, cutting about two hours from the ascent time. Getting back into Taipei, the only thing I could think of was sleep … deserved, I do believe.

    So, I broke my duck on the high mountains, and I am extremely keen to make it back down there at some point to bag some more hills and trails.


    Winding roads.


    More atmospheric forests.


    And one last one.


    Big mountains. Bigger skies.


    Almost there …


    The bus to the final meeting point … and looking a little bedraggled.


    Inexplicably, this was our ride back to the train station in Jiayi – a San Francisco-style tourist bus. We got some strange looks!

    Flickr
    http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=71649

    Google Maps

    View Yushan in a larger map

    A few links if you want to do it yourself:

    Wikitravel – Yushan
    Yushan National Park Protected Area – Application Site
    Everytrail – Yushan – Some GPS maps and tech wizardry

  • Cat Burglars

    The door was locked.

    The cats, beyond the door sounded like they had just knocked something over. “Silly cats.” Taking out the key and turning it in the lock, I didn’t get the usual three-stage series of weighted clicks; instead just a solitary single rotation, signifying a flatmate was home.

    “Hello!”

    No answer, I walk into my room, but catch a glance of Abe’s. “He must be doing washing.” Clothes everywhere. Cupboards open. Something is not right. Thoughts of Abe or his girlfriend in a frenzied argument wander through my brain, as I pass into my room and see a symmetrical display of laundry. Something is definitely not right.

    The penny drops at about the same speed as my jaw as I glance round my room. Lenses and camera intact. Passport strewn on the bed. Computer accounted for. I run back into Abe’s room; again I see his camera equipment and computer, and am even more confused. The trifecta of laundry-themed rooms ends in Armando’s, as I run past on the way to the living room, and awaiting brand-new Macbook Pro. What is going on?

    Abe. No reply. A quick word with Armando, and he cuts short dinner to run home. Obviously avoiding touching anything at all, I do a quick second sweep of the rooms – the only stuff missing seems to be Abe’s computer and our beloved three-legged cat, Tripod, who is likely hiding in a dark corner somewhere. Armando arrives – pennies and jaws dropping all around.

    “What’s the number for emergency services in Taiwan? … 012?”

    I try Abe again. No response, so I call Natasha and ruin one more evening.

    Time to dive into emergency Chinese, and I dial. The guy on the end of the phone is calm and positive, and he dispatches a policeman to arrive in the next few minutes. Just before hanging up, he compliments me on my Chinese; and even under such stress my ego still pauses to be stroked before I shake myself out of it. Meanwhile, Armando is doing his own sweep of the house, shocked that he had only left home an hour previously at 6:50. We play out the scenario – the door, the lights, the stuff left lying around – nothing quite making sense. I grab the camera, take some shots of each room, and run a video around while narrating what I remember.


    Laundry


    My dirty laundry


    Armando’s

    Abe one more time. Or maybe two. His phone is clearly off.

    The first cop arrives, and I rattle off what happened to him. This shit clearly happens all the time, and he calmly listens to our story while he wanders around and takes photos of the most pertinent details. He sits me down and I sign some forms that seem to allow detectives to come in and do a formal inspection. Switching between his Nokia cell phone and radio, he radios for backup, and Armando and I look up to see the househould Hulk cookie jar, well, ajar; it’s head and shoulders telling the story of a very polite burglar taking a peek inside and returning the lid.

    The phone rings. A conversation completely out of context is difficult enough to grasp at the best of times, and it was only after a minute that I realised it was the police call centre asking to see if I was ‘satisfied’ with the timely service so far? Satisfied? What… yeah sure. Thanks. Slightly knocked sideways, it seemed all the more natural to strike up a conversation about our cats, while watching the policeman edging towards Datou. A few photos are collected on his official camera; and in mild disbelief I watch as he takes out his cell phone and adds a couple for himself. Are we looking for a cat burglar here?


    Datou has a new friend.

    More police begin arriving, and questions begin to be asked of the likely location of the other keys. Abe is out of contact, Natasha is on the way, and I don’t even have the cell phone of the landlord. Raised eyebrows, inspection of ID card etc etc. This is getting a bit frustrating.

    The CSI dude turns up, and he begins inspecting the main door lock. No joy. Then, his eye wanders over to the window opening into the living room; a brief flash of the light and it’s clear that’s where they came in. Bars block the windows of most houses in Taiwan, and ours is no exception. The only surprise is how easily they prised the bars – with an adjustable spanner, no less. So, let me ask you – if you can get through the bars with such a crude tool, and the bars themselves work as a ladder, what is the freaking point. Strike one for Taiwan. Not in our favour is the fact that we often leave that window open to allow air in, and it was unlikely that it was locked – lesson learnt.


    Clueso


    Breaking and entering

    Prints are taken on the window, and … Hulk. Gloves. They came and went through the same place, which probably explains the scuffling sound when I arrived. We chat briefly about what to do, and his advice sounds like it is coming from a man that has seen this way, way too often. The adrenaline starts to fade as he leaves, and we assess the damage. Tasha arrives, slightly breathless.


    Yes – Hulk. Please take him in for more questioning, by all means…

    It’s quite clear straight off the bat that we got away amazingly lightly. A few hundred dollars in American cash, and all the expensive equipment and travel documents are still intact, as far as we can see. But still one cat missing.

    Tripod is timid cat at the best of times, but she was not to be found in any of her typical hiding places. I shine a light quickly outside, and nothing. I go and get my camera, and set the flash on, hoping to capture some reflective eyes; nothing. Did they really steal her?

    Another shot with the torch, and the other guys hear a loud “meow”. Tripod, except for Gizmo-like sound effects simply does not meow, ever, and I am in disbelief that it is her. Datou, on the other hand, makes a bolt for the window, clearly in distress – what a hero! Some more flash photographs taken down the alleyway, and sure enough it is her, lurking behind an air conditioning unit. I grab a torch, throw on some shoes and run out of the door, with Natasha in hot pursuit.


    Safe!

    The rear of the apartment building is dark, dim, and not easy to access. I catch sight of her, and she scampers off (with three legs it’s hard to do much else), and I worry that we are about to start a bizarre game of mouse and cat. But I corner her, and manage to pick her shivering body up. Safe. And I pass her up to Armando, manhandling herself up the bars and into the warm light of the apartment.

    Covered in the muck of a million scooters, I head back to join Natasha and walk back around to the apartment entrance. Call Abe a dozen or more times. Talk at length about what the hell just happened, and wait for his arrival. And it was about this point that we realised just ho
    w hungry we were. The adrenalin surge comes to an abrupt stop.

    We didn’t need to wait to long for Abe to come back. Without wanting to get too dramatic, we walked him through the house, and it was clear that he was as shocked as the rest of us. Turns out his phone had run out of power. It’s at times like this that I realise my daily Chinese skills have definite limits – vocabulary that Abe is talented and dedicated enough to learn. Still, we got through, and in the end what more is there to say? We were amazingly lucky.

    We’ll be lodging the full report with the police tomorrow, but until then I have rather an important gathering to attend – the departure of Nick Chaney from Taiwan. But I’ll leave that for the next post.

  • Jiufen Tea Ceremony

    Company team-building activities are a fairly regular activity on the Dell calendar. One of the more community-spirited activities is the annual Jinshan beach clear-up operation at one of the surf hot spots on the other side of northen Taiwan. As a result of Typhoon Morakot, the area was in severe need of some affection, and we were glad to help. Rubbish and driftwood were dispatched in double-quick time and arranged in a relatively neat pile at the head of the beach, and we were so efficient that we were told to ‘stop’ lest we ruin the beach cleanup effort of subsequent companies doing similar initiatives – irony.

    Once we had that done and dusted, we took the opportunity not to squander our time on that side of the island, and made a beeline for the Gold Ecological Park, where my ex-Chinese teacher works. A pretty nice place, and worth a trip up the amazingly meandering road.

    Highlight of the day, though, was an evening spent in Jiufen – a place I have inexplicably never been to. What a mistake – the place was magical, and we spent a happy few hours spiriting away time in a tea shop watching the sun set over the hills towards Taipei, and subsequent glide down quite the most charming street of hanging lanterns. All in all, a fantastic little adventure.

  • Stormtrooper on a Bicycle


    Like I said. Stormtrooper on a bicycle. Yes, it’s the Deaflympics closing ceremony.

  • Wake Boarding Taiwan


    Wave rider

    Nick had the genius to book a day of wake boarding in west Taipei, near Wugu. After incessant requests from my sister to go while in the UK, I finally had the opportunity to bite the bullet, and ‘shred the rad’, as we wake boarders say. It took a few attempts to get up on my feet, but after that it was fun in the sun. A perfect activity for an oppressively humid day in Taipei, and one that I would like to repeat in the near future. Add to that this morning’s mountain bike ride, and I had a real ‘action’ weekend … and my body aches to prove it.


    The price of old rope


    Sneak pics


    Taipei Yacht Club


    Beautiful clear water – just don’t touch the bottom.


    Rear view mirror


    Views to the mountains / motor ways. It was nice to see Taipei from a different angle …


    … which I did. Several times.


    Rocket man.

  • Window Undressing


    Walking home after a late night in the office, and I stumbled across a window being re-dressed at Sogo. Or undressed, perhaps. Flickr.

  • Typhoon Morakot


    In the eye of the storm

    The island has been hit by the first proper Typhoon of the year; ‘Morakot’. Well, I say hit, but this was a particularly impotent Typhoon by my standards, barely shaking the windows. The island did shut down on Friday, meaning I was working from home. This is okay, but I do tend to get a dose of cabin fever when stuck inside with the sound of rain outside – frustrating and greasy … but I did manage to complete Mario Kart in Arcade Mode yesterday so all is not lost.

    As ever, jumping on the mountain bike this morning managed to blow out the cobwebs and redeemed the weekend. Great feeling it is; riding in the rain when everyone else is indoors. Been off the wheels for a few weeks now, so it was well overdue.

    Update: While it has been pretty safe in Taipei, the rest of the island has been pretty hard hit … best wishes to all those down south who are facing some pretty tough conditions.

  • Quake

    There I am, just about to get to sleep after fending off jet lag for two nights, and an earthquake comes along and wakes me up. How inconvenient!

    6.3 on the Richter scale according the the USGS.

    Hualien really gets it bad every time! Luckily, I was asleep for the two after shocks…

  • X Beyond O : Calligraphy – Sign – Space


    School days

    In contrast to last weekend, which was an alcohol-fueled romp through Taipei’s early mornings, I decided this weekend to be a little more civilised, and thus lined up a morning of Mountain Biking (sweaty), followed by a rather more cultured stroll around the Museum of Contemporary Art in Taipei.

    I turned up to quite a large exhibit of modern interpretations of Chinese calligraphy, called X Beyond O: Calligraphy – Sign – Space. I have seen my fair share of ‘modern China’ style exhibitions on this type of subject, but they wowed with some really very memorable pieces, including projection of characters onto graffiti’d-up school desks, piles of paper with laser-cut symbols running through and fun and games with the increasingly ubiquitous multi-touch displays.

    I am still somewhat blown away by the main space, however. A huge ink pad – and I mean huge; about the size of a tennis court – flanked by a scroll and brushes on one side. Dimly lit and perfectly reflective, it really was rather a special space.

    I can’t pretend to be able to penetrate these deeper aspects of the culture – especially written culture – but I do think I can appreciate it none-the-less, and certainly enjoy it. I say that, as the Chinese I have been learning over the last few years is bring ground to dust, replaced by the mental effort required to survive at Dell!


    Hidden images, projected into a brightly-lit room


    … which entailed running around the room attempting to capture and focus the characters on Chinese fans … one reference too far?


    The main exhibition space. None more black.


    Reflecting.

  • Taipei a-Wanderin’

    http://www.flickr.com/apps/slideshow/show.swf?v=71649
    Since I have now been in Taiwan an improbably long FIVE YEARS, and on top of that broke one year at Dell, I thought I would go and treat myself to a new camera lens. I somehow managed to misplace my old 50mm F1.8, so thought I would take the plunge and get the F1.4 upgrade. Abe, my flat mate, has the F1.2, which is an amazing piece of glass to be sure, but it’s a bit big for carrying for long periods, and I didn’t have a spare kidney to sell.

    I am quite enjoying it so far, and also bought a polarising filter for my 24-105 L, since I thought I would be more likely to do landscape images with that one. All good fun.


    Triple-double reflections


    This picture was interesting, not for the thing itself (I rather liked the yellow tape while waiting for food), but for the reaction of one of the passers-by. He leaned in, asked me what I was taking a photo of, and when I explained ‘of the yellow tape’ snorted indignantly and strutted off.


    There were some pretty serious anti-government marches this weekend, and I spotted the minor result of one of the rallies – they had crossed out the ‘Chinese’ on the Deaflympics signs. That’ll teach ’em!


    Lane positioning


    Building at rest